MA - L - PE

...the long line of spray
Where the sea meets the moon-blanched land
Listen!

(Dover Beach - Matthew Arnold)

 

Shadows under the eyes, bone tired and needing a rest, that’s what a MA –L–PE holiday can do to you. All because of its quaint loveliness that wants you to waste no time resting or sleeping or being away from the beach. Especially if all you can see from your hotel room is the beach and the sea beyond.

Soul soothing sound of waves, the sound of eternality, the eternal note of continuity. It makes one want to believe in the certainty of life and at its deceptive consistency all at once.  

450 km from Bangalore, 60 km from Mangalore, 7 km from Udupi, is the small beach town of Malpe. We followed this oil tanker for much of the route - through verdant Sakleshpur and the ghats leading to Mangalore.

This picturesque drive is so suffused with greenery that the chance waterfalls that you hear before you see, still surprise. The falls on one side and the pebbly stream running along on the other go a long way in keeping the spirits intact even as the bones crunch on the terrifyingly potty road (nah, no Pa effect this, just borrowed from a friend). But this is true only on a good day for the mindless quarrying has everything covered in dust. We were fortunate to catch the beauty on the way back thanks to the rain. 

 

There is only one property – Paradise Isle – well intentioned - clean rooms, obliging staff, okay food but poorly managed. They can’t handle the pressure of the ‘season’. With no clear check-in/out policy, they cannot help people overstaying. We were witness to some drama there and in the restaurants too for lack of place or food being late or cold or something… Avoid weekends, especially long, Christmas, NY ones. On these, the place has people waiting in the lobby like at a fast food place. Waiting for someone to check out!

Weekend, day time, this is a very crowded beach. Best to stay away. Spend that time exploring the little town and the nearby Udupi. But early mornings and late nights is the time to be on this beach. We walked the shoreline till midnight and were back before sunrise to have the beach all to us!

St Mary's island from a distance.

Other things to do here are to take speed boat rides and visit the St Mary’s Island. Neither of which we did. First for the fear of vertigo and second for the fear of vertigo in the blazing sun!

UDUPI

The Sri Krishna Math in Udupi is seven kilometer away from Malpe beach. One of the holiest places for pilgrimage in southern India, the Shri Krishna Math was founded in the 13^th century by Shri Madhvacharya, the founder of the Dvaita school of Vedanta.

The interesting legend here is about the 16^th century ardent devotee of Krishna, Kanakadasa who was not allowed into the temple because of his low caste but Krishna pleased by his devotion, turned to face a hole at the back of the temple wall from where Kanakdasa could see him. This window known as Kanakana Kindi can be seen today.

Early mornings and late evenings are a good time to visit the temple as the queues get too long during the day and there are no ‘paid’ darshans to help you skip the queue. Finally, a temple where all are equal before God.

Firewood stored in the shape of a rath.

  Madhwa Pushkarani/sarovar

While we roamed the streets, a festive spirit suddenly seemed to take over and before we knew there were dancers in colorful costumes and in oversized masks that took over the street from both sides. On asking some students, we came to know that a month long celebration was on as a navratan chariot had been gifted to the math.

The Karaga Kolata started with what looked like dandiya – with the sticks and had many bhangra steps too!

Then the majestic rath came in a large procession.

 
We were told to eat at Maitri Samaj. Only, we had no clue there were so many. Did peep in at a couple but chickened out :D

Below, some shots from the moving car on the way back.

OF the stones of the place...H A M P I

  … where the boulders lie
As touching as a basketful of eggs,…

-RF 

Hampi comes into view as the road winds all of a sudden. As you approach it, you can see gigantic boulders precariously balanced on enormous rock faces, hillocks or just spouting out of the greenery - resting on prayers.

 

Must-know HISTORY, important facts, really quickly…

Hampi was the capital of the Vijaynagar Empire, one of the largest Hindu empires in India. Was destroyed in 1565. Spread over 60 sq miles, it was the largest empire in the world after the Roman Empire. There are many parallels with the Roman civilization significantly, the paved pathways, the waterways and the underground drainage systems.  This is also the Kishkindha of the Ramayan, the kingdom of the Vanar King Sugriv, the younger brother of Vali.  Anjaneya Parvat, said to be birthplace of Lord Hanuman is also here.

 

               

So how does one pack an ancient civilization into a tour? And wrap it up to present it in words and pictures? Too ambitious for me to attempt.  Google Hampi and you have it all. Go there and the guides will provide each detail and help you explore the famous monuments. But in that vast stone country, what is it that you will discover?  What will remain with you, in the memories beyond the photos on Facebook? I’m giving the photos of famous landmarks a miss (the page takes forever to load).  Here are my favorite Hampi places, moments …

Kadalekalu Ganesha, shaped from behind like Ganesh sitting on the lap of Parvati. There’s the 14 feet tall Kadalekalu Ganesha and the Sasivekalu Ganesha. Both are named after the shape of their bellies – gram seed and mustard seed, respectively.

    

This giant monolithic statue of Lakshmi  Narasimha, the most famous icon in Hampi. It is believed that the original image contained his consort Lakshmi sitting on his lap. A hand of the goddess on his waist can be seen. 

          

  

The Hazara Rama Temple which has the story of Ramayana carved on its outer walls.

The beautiful Indo-Islamic architecture of the Lotus Mahal.   

The underground 14th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva as Prasanna Virupaksha, is always filled with water. I liked the way the Nandi is sitting at an angle. Below. 

The Bhojana Sala has a water channel about one meter wide running for more than 20 meters. The food trays are carved out on the stone slabs on both sides. They are also slightly tilted presumably so they could be washed and drained by the running water!!  these 'food trays' now lie scattered here and there.      

The Hampi Bazaar where traders from other parts of the world came for gold, silver, rubies and emeralds, now sell Lays and pajamas, jholas and hippy things. It’s lined with shops offering bits of India to foreigners – Lambadi embroideries, kashmiri papier mache, silver ware, sandalwood curios of Karnataka, bidriware of Andhra …

Yeah, the thought fascinated me but this is all, a frame - The King's Balance where the king was weighed against precious gems and gold! 

    

The Queen's Bath is a little away from the living quarters and hence it is believed that it was more a pleasure resort than a regular swimming pool. 

Seen above the fire-spitting dragon and Mongol figures - the influence of trade with them.

 

The waterways that carried water from the reservoirs to the tanks.

 

Stone doors!! 

 

How the huge boulders were cut into shapes - first perforated like this, then filled with wooden pieces that when they expaned broke the stone along the perforated lines!!   

A double storeyed structure on Hemkuta Hills.  And tired feet below :D        

  MISSED!!          Malyavantha Temple of Vishnu (in the form of Ram) situated on a hill is believed to be where He spent time searching for Sita.           Anjaneya Parvat, said to be birthplace of Lord Hanuman.             Koti Linga literally translated means one crore lingas. It is situated along the banks of river Tungabhadra and considered very scared. We could not see it as it was submerged due to heavy rains.              ALSO Worth a dekko            Tungabhadra Dam across the river Tungabhadra, spread over an area of 400 sq.km, is one of the biggest multi-purpose dams in Karnataka. It has 33 gates. Its beautiful gardens and musical fountain show late evenings draw hordes of tourists.     The hills wave out their happy pinwheels as you enter and leave Hampi...