...the long line of spray
Where the sea meets the moon-blanched land
Listen!
(Dover Beach - Matthew Arnold)
Shadows under the eyes, bone tired and needing a rest, that’s what a MA –L–PE holiday can do to you. All because of its quaint loveliness that wants you to waste no time resting or sleeping or being away from the beach. Especially if all you can see from your hotel room is the beach and the sea beyond.
Soul soothing sound of waves, the sound of eternality, the eternal note of continuity. It makes one want to believe in the certainty of life and at its deceptive consistency all at once.
450 km from Bangalore, 60 km from Mangalore, 7 km from Udupi, is the small beach town of Malpe. We followed this oil tanker for much of the route - through verdant Sakleshpur and the ghats leading to Mangalore.
This picturesque drive is so suffused with greenery that the chance waterfalls that you hear before you see, still surprise. The falls on one side and the pebbly stream running along on the other go a long way in keeping the spirits intact even as the bones crunch on the terrifyingly potty road (nah, no Pa effect this, just borrowed from a friend). But this is true only on a good day for the mindless quarrying has everything covered in dust. We were fortunate to catch the beauty on the way back thanks to the rain.
This picturesque drive is so suffused with greenery that the chance waterfalls that you hear before you see, still surprise. The falls on one side and the pebbly stream running along on the other go a long way in keeping the spirits intact even as the bones crunch on the terrifyingly potty road (nah, no Pa effect this, just borrowed from a friend). But this is true only on a good day for the mindless quarrying has everything covered in dust. We were fortunate to catch the beauty on the way back thanks to the rain.
There is only one property – Paradise Isle – well intentioned - clean rooms, obliging staff, okay food but poorly managed. They can’t handle the pressure of the ‘season’. With no clear check-in/out policy, they cannot help people overstaying. We were witness to some drama there and in the restaurants too for lack of place or food being late or cold or something… Avoid weekends, especially long, Christmas, NY ones. On these, the place has people waiting in the lobby like at a fast food place. Waiting for someone to check out!
Weekend, day time, this is a very crowded beach. Best to stay away. Spend that time exploring the little town and the nearby Udupi. But early mornings and late nights is the time to be on this beach. We walked the shoreline till midnight and were back before sunrise to have the beach all to us!
St Mary's island from a distance.
Other things to do here are to take speed boat rides and visit the St Mary’s Island. Neither of which we did. First for the fear of vertigo and second for the fear of vertigo in the blazing sun!
The Sri Krishna Math in Udupi is seven kilometer away from Malpe beach. One of the holiest places for pilgrimage in southern India, the Shri Krishna Math was founded in the 13th century by Shri Madhvacharya, the founder of the Dvaita school of Vedanta.
The interesting legend here is about the 16th century ardent devotee of Krishna, Kanakadasa who was not allowed into the temple because of his low caste but Krishna pleased by his devotion, turned to face a hole at the back of the temple wall from where Kanakdasa could see him. This window known as Kanakana Kindi can be seen today.
Early mornings and late evenings are a good time to visit the temple as the queues get too long during the day and there are no ‘paid’ darshans to help you skip the queue. Finally, a temple where all are equal before God.
Firewood stored in the shape of a rath.
Madhwa Pushkarani/sarovar
While we roamed the streets, a festive spirit suddenly seemed to take over and before we knew there were dancers in colorful costumes and in oversized masks that took over the street from both sides. On asking some students, we came to know that a month long celebration was on as a navratan chariot had been gifted to the math.
The Karaga Kolata started with what looked like dandiya – with the sticks and had many bhangra steps too!
Then the majestic rath came in a large procession.
We were told to eat at Maitri Samaj. Only, we had no clue there were so many. Did peep in at a couple but chickened out :D
Below, some shots from the moving car on the way back.
