Shefali
Tripathi Mehta, July 22, 2012
Shefali Tripathi Mehta sails through the many lakes of
Bhopal, soaking up some history and pointing out to other sights of natural
wonder along the way.
Bhopal, in the heart of central India with its lush forests and wildlife, is
known as the city of lakes for the numerous natural and artificial lakes that
highlight its beauty and pleasant climate. Besides the two better-known Upper
(Bada) and Lower (Chota) lakes, the Motia Talab, the Shahpura Lake and the
Hussain Baksh Ki Talaiya form a vital hub of the city’s social, cultural and
historic milieu.
There is an old saying about the Upper Lake of Bhopal, “Taalon mein taal Bhopal
ka taal, baaqi sab tallaiya,” which loosely means that all the rest are ponds
compared to it. The largest artificial lake in Asia, it sits in the heart of
the city and winds its way around its south-western hills to flow away into the
River Kaliasote.
In the 11th century, Raja Bhoj, the Parmara King of Malwa who ruled from Dhar,
founded the city of Bhojpal, which later came to be known as Bhopal. Legend has
it that he was advised to bathe in the waters of 365 rivers to cure him of an
ailment. So 365 tributaries were made to converge and the Upper Lake was formed
by constructing a clay dam across the Kolans river.
The city of undulating hills runs in a horseshoe around the Upper Lake, leaving
it free in the southwest to blend into the horizon and display breathtaking
sunsets each evening. The tranquil beauty of these sunsets is best enjoyed from
the vantage points atop the two high hills on either side of the lake — the
Shymala and the Idgah Hills. Just as the sun dips and the skies darken, the
twinkling city lights in the valley town below present another quiet spectacle.
The Van Vihar National Park runs along the lake in the south and the wooded
Takia island, a small island with the tomb of the Shah Ali Shah Rahamatullah,
adds ethereal beauty to it. The lake is a haven for migratory birds like the
white stork, the black-necked stork, the bar-headed goose, the spoonbill and
the majestic Indian sarus crane.
Boating wasn’t such a common thing to do in our lakes back then. Some boats on
the Lower Lake offered the recreation, but the pucca Bhopalees were content to
watch. We were careful to not linger for too long after dark at the then
‘unsafe’ road along the Upper Lake up to the Yatch Club.
Now there is a swank new boulevard with neat flower beds and painted rails along the length of the Upper Lake. Dotted with restaurants and ice cream stalls, balloon sellers and peanut vendor carts, the scene in the evenings is more of a fair. India’s first National Sailing Club has been set up at the Boat Club and offers water skiing and para-sailing among other water sports. Motor boats zoom across the lake and an artificial rotating fountain spins on it at sundown.
Towards the north, where the ruins of forts and palaces of the old city dipped
their feet into its waters, the VIP Road runs along the lake, connecting the
city to the international airport. In 2011, the government gifted the city a
statue of the tribal king, Raja Bhoj, which stands in the lake. The lake was
also renamed ‘Bhoj Taal’ in his honour.
Among the other notable lakes, in the north of the city, are the Motia Talab,
the Hussain Baksh Ki Talaiya and the Noor Mahal Talab, all within the precincts
of the historic Taj Mahal Palace. The
placid Motia Talab reflects like a mirror, the crown among mosques, the Tajul
Masajid. In the posh, new part of the city is the Shahapura Lake constructed in
the 1970s. Home to an amazing variety of resident and migratory birds, it is an
oasis among the concrete human settlements. There are several other seasonal
lakes dotting the landscape and adding charm to this beautiful city of lakes.
