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TREKKING
Tryst with adventure
Shefali Tripathi Mehta
A hammock, a book, endless blue skies and a gurgling river flowing by. The romance of a toy train gently meandering through scenic hills peppered with quaint stone houses, rolling valleys and quiet streams. Long walks into pristine, pine-scented landscapes. The thrill of trekking through unexplored terrain, river rafting and paragliding. Beach volleyball, sumptuous barbecues and bonfire. It’s like an elaborate buffet spread for each to pick what they fancy.
Beyond crowded Shimla and Manali, there are uncharted havens of beauty and tranquillity in the lesser-known regions of the western Himalayas. On a very hot, dusty Delhi-day, we started for Joginder Nagar (Mandi district) by road to arrive by night and be greeted by tall pines swaying in deep gorges, a balmy breeze and our unassuming host, a full-time doctor with a full-time passion for the great outdoors, Dr Naresh Singhla. Dr Singhla and his team run Alpine Treks — a chain of camping resorts at various off-the-guide-book locations around Joginder Nagar.
Heaven on earth
At an altitude of 4,000 feet in the valley of the Dhauladhar or the White Mountains, Joginder Nagar is a restfully green hill town with floating clouds and sudden showers. The first property, Trekkers Nest, is a basic motel, a stopover. Tidy rooms, clean beds and bath and fresh cooked food. In short, homely warmth and personal attention guaranteed.
From there you could choose like us to camp in tents at Barot (40 km), snugly nestled among the mountains. The River Uhl runs along the campsite. It’s a great place for angling. All outdoor and adventure activities are arranged for at Barot. For those seeking a quiet time, it is restful just to watch the lights change.
The morning blush creeps over the mountain tops, sprinkling gold over the pines, filling them slowly till they turn warm and exude their scent. The floating sky flaunts several clear hues of blue till noon and then the evening cascades into the valley in a big shadow, all at once.
You can also take the 12 km-ride to Winch Camp (8,000 feet) in the quaint and one-of-its-kind haulage trolley. The ride matches the stomach churning thrill of a roller coaster with the quaintness of yore and affords an unparalleled view of forests packed with deodars and rhododendron (burans).
The mountain air kept us ravenous at all times. From fresh caught trout to hill-people dal with rice, aloo-gobi parathas, and even instant noodles on demand, the camp cook dished out ambrosial hot meals. Like a light bulb, the moon hung low almost at a hand’s length and as the night grew cold, we curled around a bonfire. The night was exceptionally quiet and the murmur of the Uhl assured as we zipped ourselves up into our tents.
We drove to Jhatingiri (16 km) and then trekked up to Phooladhar (the mountain of flowers) at 8,000 feet. It is an easy trail and the ridge presents a stunning sight of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal Ranges. Here, you can camp in tents too.
There are many more medium and long duration trekking trails upto 17,000 feet. For the hardy, there is every conceivable form of mountain and river adventure — rock climbing, rappelling and river crossing. In winter, one can enjoy a spot of fresh snowfall and some basic skiing too.
Nearby spots worth a dekko are — the Shanan Power House, one of the oldest hydro-electric powerhouses of the world, the Nargu Wild Life Sanctuary, home to the ghoral and the Himalayan black bear, the historic Baijnath Temple (23 km) originally built in 804 AD where Lord Shiva is worshipped as Vaidyanath, the Lord of Physicians. It is believed that it was here that Ravan prayed to Lord Shiva to grant him immortality.
Billing (16 km) at 8,600 feet is a world famous paragliding site. The Paragliding Pre-World Cup is held here every year in the months of October or November. The tea gardens of Palampur (30 km) and Dharamsala (89 km) are the other attractions. In the month of August and September, devotees trek up to the holy Dianasur Lake at a height of 14,000 feet where a variety of herbs, medicinal plants and exotic flowers are found.
Travel tips
How to get there: By Air: The nearest airports are Gaggal (Kangra) 60 km (2 hours’ hill drive) and Bhuntar near Kullu 110 km (4 hours’ hill drive).
By Road: 65 km by road from Kangra, 56 km from Mandi, 496 km from Delhi and 250 km from Chandigarh.
By Rail: The narrow gauge rail from Pathankot to Joginder Nagar takes 5 hours to cover a distance of 150 km.
Best time to visit: Year-round, except the monsoon months of July-August.
